St. Giles' Cathedral, also known as the High Kirk of Edinburgh, is a historic church located in the heart of Edinburgh, Scotland. It is one of the city's most iconic landmarks and has been a focal point of worship for over 900 years. St. Giles' Cathedral is the principal place of worship of the Church of Scotland in Edinburgh, and it holds a significant place in the history of the Scottish Reformation. While it is commonly referred to as a cathedral, it does not serve as the seat of a bishop, as the Church of Scotland adheres to a Presbyterian form of church governance.
The origins of St. Giles' Cathedral date back to the early 12th century, when it was founded as a small parish church during the reign of King David I. Dedicated to St. Giles, the patron saint of cripples and lepers, the church became a key religious site as Edinburgh grew in importance.
Throughout the centuries, the building underwent numerous expansions and renovations, transitioning from a modest structure into a large and prominent church. The earliest surviving parts of the current structure, including parts of the nave, date from the late 14th century.
St. Giles' played a pivotal role during the Scottish Reformation in the 16th century. The reformer John Knox, a leading figure in the Protestant Reformation in Scotland, served as minister of St. Giles’ from 1559 until his death in 1572. Knox’s fiery sermons and leadership helped spread Reformed ideas across Scotland, turning the church into a hub of Protestant activity.
Following the Reformation, the building was reconfigured to accommodate Presbyterian worship, including the removal of many of the church’s Catholic features.
One of the most famous episodes in the history of St. Giles' Cathedral occurred on July 23, 1637, when Jenny Geddes, a market trader, is said to have sparked a riot during a service at the cathedral. The incident occurred when King Charles I and Archbishop William Laud attempted to impose the Book of Common Prayer on the Scottish church, which was largely Presbyterian and opposed to such changes.
According to tradition, when the Dean of Edinburgh began reading from the new prayer book, Jenny Geddes, sitting in the congregation, shouted, “Daur ye say mass in my lug?” (“Dare you say mass in my ear?”). She then hurled her stool at the dean's head, an act which incited an uproar among the congregation. The resulting riot spread throughout the city and symbolized the Scottish opposition to Charles I's religious reforms. This incident was a precursor to the signing of the National Covenant and contributed to the broader conflicts of the Wars of the Three Kingdoms.
While the historical accuracy of Jenny Geddes’ exact actions is debated, the event is firmly embedded in Scottish folklore and is commemorated as a symbol of resistance against attempts to enforce Anglican practices in Scotland.
The current appearance of St. Giles’ is the result of numerous architectural changes and restorations over the centuries. The church’s crown spire, a unique feature that distinguishes the building, was added in the 15th century and remains a recognizable part of Edinburgh’s skyline.
In the 19th century, St. Giles' underwent significant restoration, largely due to the efforts of William Chambers, Lord Provost of Edinburgh. The restoration work, led by architect William Hay, sought to restore the church’s medieval appearance and included the removal of many post-Reformation alterations. The interior was transformed to reflect the Gothic style, and the church’s stained-glass windows were restored.
St. Giles’ Cathedral is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture, with its massive stone pillars, vaulted ceilings, and pointed arches. The church’s most notable exterior feature is its crown steeple, which rises above the Royal Mile and is considered a symbol of Edinburgh.
One of the most renowned features of St. Giles' is the Thistle Chapel, a small, ornate chapel located within the cathedral. Completed in 1911, the chapel serves as the spiritual home of the Order of the Thistle, Scotland's highest order of chivalry. Designed by architect Robert Lorimer, the chapel is renowned for its elaborate wood and stone carvings, stained glass, and heraldic symbols. The intricate craftsmanship of the chapel makes it one of the finest examples of late Gothic Revival architecture.
St. Giles’ also features a number of stunning stained-glass windows that depict biblical scenes and figures from Scottish history. While much of the original glass was destroyed during the Reformation, the 19th- and 20th-century restorations included the installation of new stained glass. These windows add to the beauty and contemplative atmosphere of the interior.
Within St. Giles', visitors can find several notable memorials, including a statue of John Knox, a memorial to the Covenanters, and plaques commemorating various historical figures associated with the church. Additionally, the cathedral holds a WWI memorial and other tributes to Scotland’s military history.
Though referred to as a “cathedral,” St. Giles' does not function as a cathedral in the traditional sense. The Church of Scotland follows a Presbyterian structure, which does not have bishops or dioceses. Nevertheless, St. Giles' serves as the High Kirk of Edinburgh and remains a focal point for important national and civic services.
Regular worship services are held at St. Giles', including Sunday services, special services for civic events, and celebrations of Scottish holidays. The church also hosts musical performances and events, making it a vibrant part of Edinburgh's cultural and religious life.
Throughout its history, St. Giles' has been closely associated with the Scottish monarchy. Kings and queens have worshipped there, and it has served as the location for important royal events. Most recently, it was the site of memorial services for Queen Elizabeth II in 2022 following her death, with her coffin lying in state in the cathedral.
In 1638, the National Covenant was signed at St. Giles', marking a significant moment in Scottish history. The Covenant was a pledge by Scottish Presbyterians to uphold their religious freedom against the interference of the Stuart monarchs, particularly Charles I, who sought to impose Anglican-style reforms on the Scottish Church.
St. Giles' Cathedral became a central location during the Scottish Reformation, with John Knox delivering some of his most famous sermons there. The church's transformation from a Catholic to a Protestant place of worship symbolized the broader religious changes sweeping across Scotland.
St. Giles' Cathedral is one of Edinburgh’s most visited landmarks, attracting tourists and pilgrims alike. Located on the Royal Mile, it is part of the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its history, architecture, and religious significance make it a must-visit location for anyone interested in Scottish heritage.
Today, St. Giles' continues to be an active place of worship, with services held regularly. It is also a popular venue for classical music concerts, lectures, and exhibitions. As an integral part of Edinburgh's spiritual and cultural life, St. Giles' remains a place where both tradition and modernity intersect.